Chilean Adventure Part III

So, where did I leave off? I believe that I was in Antofagasta about to head into the Atacama desert. What day was that? This trip has been so amazing, I can´t believe its only been 8 days since we left…absolutely insanely wonderful and beautiful.

So…the next morning we headed north on the highway.towards the dry of the desert, and the oasis of Peine. Along the way we stopped at a viewpoint overlooking the SALT Flats, these incredible stretches of SALT parched ground spreading as far the eye could see all the way to the Bolivian border. Surrounding this vast white valley floor were 5 and 6000 metre peaks, 8 of which are active Volcanoes. Stunning. Simple stunning. We stopped several times for pictures of unlikely poses set against the amazing landscape.

Alter several hours we arrived in Peine – a tiny village of about 400 inhabitants who are descendants of the original altiplano peoples – the Atacamans. After getting extremely hot and sweaty walking around town visiting the original centuries old hieroglyphic type cave art and the fort ruins, we all welcomes a swim in the town´s only lake- being fed by a mountain stream from the Andes, which, unfortunately is the dwindling water supply for the community. The mining extraction of Lithium in the area, being done solely by US companies, is diverting much of the water from the local´s water supply so as to avoid having to pipe it in from the sea. It is a very sad state of affairs. This town might have to be abandoned in the next few years…

Anyway, it was very refreshing and we had lots of fun judging a diving contest that all the guys used to show off their fine skills.

After another several hours in the bus, we arrived at La Reserva de los Flamingos – a national reserve for Flamingos, who live here in the few lakes that exist on the flats, eating a rich diet of Brine Shrimp. The birds were majestic as they flew against a reddening sky…we stayed there and watched the sun setting over the Andes.

Another 2 hours brought us to our most northern destination – the little town of San Pedro De Atacama, in the middle of the desert and gateway to Bolivia. After a quick shower we all headed out as a large group for dinner. We were all passing out from hunger, but it seems that Chilenas do not blink an eye at eating dinner at 1030pm. The food was amazing as usual, with ridiculously sized portions. Luckily, Ice Bru has become my human garbage disposal unit, and happily eats whatever I can´t. Great for avoiding temptation. Eating very late has become somewhat of a pattern on this trip – last night we sat down for food at 12:30am!!!

That night we all bought Pisco and drank around the FIRE at the hostel. Jorge had arranged a "private Party" for most of the group to go to, but I opted for an early night at 2am!!! That is considered "early"! Most of the peeps staggered in around 6am…

The next day, Thursday, we were free to spend as we pleased in San Pedro. After wandering around the town and having breakfast, a few of us decided to rent mountain bikes and venture out to visit the Inca Fort and a mountain bike destination known on our maps as The Devils Gorge. It sounded promising.

Well, it was more than promising. The scenery, quite frankly, was utterly inspirational. Tall red dusty rocks and towering mountains in the dry dry heat. It was extremely hot and you have to pile on sun screen like your life depends upon it. Devils Gorge turned out to be these very unique, narrow and maze like rock formations that you could cycle around, sometimes carrying your bike over narrow stretches, going deeper and deeper into the gorge. At one point, we had to cross the river – and there was nothing for it but to just go full speed through the water, hoping the current didn´t take the wheels out from under you.

The gorge was the most fantastic thing I´ve experienced thus far on the trip. I remembered how excited I could get at wondrous natural rock phenomenon , and was openly whooping at every corner as the scenery unveiled itself. It was the perfect morning adventure.

As it was getting late, the four of us turned back and pedalled madly back into town, picking up some needed nourishment in the form of cheese and tomato empanadas – fast becoming my favorite snack in Chile.

That evening, Jorge took us on a tour of a place called Valle de la Luna, or Moon Valley in English. It is an amazing array of sand dunes, caves, rocks, and mountains that set against the pink of the dying sun made the soul just soar. We began with hike and a free climb up some rocks and into a cave that opened up to a kind of mini canyon. If you stood silent you could hear the rocks cracking under the intense pressure of the suns rays.

We then donned headlamps and got down and dirty in a set of caves that serpentine for about a mile. At one point, I was crawling on my belly and trying not to smack my head in the overhangs, and fighting claustrophobia along the way…a little scary but fun nonetheless.

We then huffed and puffed, exerting our tired, hungover, altitude plagued little bodies up an 500 metre sand dune to get a good spot to drink in the sunset. After at least an hour taking way too many silly photos, we all shut up and gawked at the colors the dying sun splashed onto the rock below. Beautiful.

Driving back to town, we quickly changed and headed out for dinner. Jorge took us to a wonderful local restaurant where we were serenaded by a local Chilean mountain folk group who played the flute, and the wind pipes. They had us all on our feet, I practically threw up my dinner at the vigor in which we were moved to dance. This band didn´t just play music, they knew how to perform and performed with a lot of passion. Good times were had by all.

Since it was only 1am as we finished, we all put in money for a booze kitty and then headed out by the river to have bonfire party. Some locals joined in the fun, and soon we were all laughing so loud I was sure the police would come and break up the festivities. I have to say, I got particularly tipsy on this evening and had much fun laughing at the top of my lungs. It turned out to the perfect end to what was the best day of the trip thus far, as well as perhaps one of the top ten travel days I´ve ever experienced.

Leaving the next morning at 8am was extremely painful and we all nursed our hangovers and sleep deprived bodies on the long long long 800km drive that day to the Pan Azucar National Park on the coast of Chile.

Several uneventful stops, and hours of butt numbing bus riding later, we arrived in the Park. It is a stunning piece of coastline which boasts a seasonal burst in wildflowers that draws scientists from all over the world. We were going to be camping on the beach, and I got to try out the tent I had brought...Thank you Yancy darling!!! I loved it!

After a freezing cold shower to remove all the crap and dust and shit in my crevices, we had dinner at a small neighborhood fisherman´restaurant and feasted on the catch of the day. It was spectacular. Afterwards, we all built a fire on the beach and laughed and shared stories till our sides were splitting from the pain of laughter. The evening ended with a memorable "puppet¨show featuring our bus buddy, BOB!! Bob was being chased and accosted by his gay admirer, Pepe ( a stuffed Koala bear) who wanted Bob to let him experiment with alternative love. You may have just had to be there...but I nearly died laughing.

Well, that was supposed to be my last night on the Northern tour,,,, but the following day yielded a surprising turn of events. Unfortunately, my recalling of said events will have to wait until next time as I am falling asleep at the keyboard.

Love to you all, and I look forward to writing the next installment!

Anita