Semester at Sea Part XII: Cuba

Well, I got back into Miami a few days ago, and being back in the USA is somewhat of a shock. I will have to write soon and let you know about my time in Cuba, because it was incredible - I even met Fidel Castro! Havana is quite possibly one of the most beautiful cities that I've ever visited.

Anyway, as an update, for those of you in Boulder, I'm in Orlando with my family and fly back on the evening of the 18th, and will be staying with my friend Jon. I can't wait to see you all again! Do any of you know of people looking for a roommate for the Spring?

For those of you in England, I'm flying back on the 25th until the 9th of January.

Love you all.

Anita

Semester at Sea Part XI: Brazil

To those of you who are fortunate (or not, depending on your perspective) enough to be able to open this attachment, it is time for another crazy Anita update. This time I wish to reflect on my travels in Brazil!

First of all, I would just like to say that things on the ship have been somewhat weird since Brazil. Everyone is contemplating the inevitable fact that the journey is very nearly over, and that its time to go home. I have mixed feelings myself. I am looking forward to seeing my parents in Miami (yes!! They are flying in to greet me, with Monica too!) And going home to Boulder and seeing my friends whom I’ve missed so much…. On the other hand, we keep getting lectures and ‘discussions’ about how we are supposed to cope with re-entry. We are warned that things will not look, feel or seem the same, both because the US is not the same country as when we left, and because we are not the same people as when we left. I truly do not believe that I will be able to absorb the full impact of this voyage until months from now….Sharing my experiences with you all has been incredible though. I am so blessed. See you all in Colorado in a couple of weeks, and to those of you in England – I fly in Christmas Day!!

Anyway, so we arrived in Salvador, Brazil on the 19^th of November. The weather was once again balmy and tropical, but without too much humidity. It was perfect. Unfortunately, I arrived with a stinking cold and I had to take it easy for the first couple of days. I had planned to travel out to a National Park called Chapada Diamantina, and stay in a town called Lencois, on the third day of our stay, with a few friends. In the meantime, I hung out in Salvador and soaked up Brazil. Our ship was docked about a ½ mile from the old district of Salvador – the Pelhourinho. This is an area, which was used to sell slaves imported from Africa until the late 19^th Century. It is now an area of hand cobbled streets, narrow alleys, glorious architecture, catholic churches and cathedrals, and many cafes and restaurants. I spent the better part of the first day happily wandering around, visiting whatever seemed appealing. Each building is painted a different pastel color, making this a real photographic heaven. It was beautiful, a step back in time. And speaking of time, this was another taste of the Seychelles – life has a very slow pace here.

The following day, I took a private tour of the rest of the city of nearly 2 million inhabitants. We visited several monuments and residential districts and churches. One of them is called the Bon Fim church, which is famous for the miraculous healing that takes place there. There was a rather creepy room inside the church where people had taken photos of their various injuries, diseases and lost limbs that had been miraculously cured during their visit. That evening we spent at the Pelhourino, watching a live concert by the Brazilian band, Oludun, who were performing in honor of Black Consciousness Day – an annual celebration marking the freeing of the slaves.

The following morning we departed at 6am for our bus ride to Lencois. The journey took 6 hours, but the scenery was magnificent along the way. This two night, three-day stay has definitely been a highlight of my voyage. This was despite our facing a rather unique start upon our arrival – a raging forest fire. Apparently it was set off intentionally to make way for agriculture. I had not expected to see deforestation in Brazil so close. It was pretty spectacular, especially at night when it lit up the sky in a deep orange glow. The town of Lencois itself is a beautiful, and authentic little village that was easily traversed on foot. Lush forest and mountains surrounded it. Our first day, we took a tour. The day was simply magical. We started off with rather a daring adventure – we were driven to this canyon that had an enormous waterfall, and was surrounded by cliffs. This is where I decided it would be fun to go zip lining – this is where you are attached to a rope and you jump of a cliff and land in the water below. Well, it seemed simple enough, until I got into the harness and was standing at the edge. At this point, I turned to the guide and said, I’m sorry – I just can’t do it! At which point he laughed, informed me that I had already paid, and pushed me off the cliff!! Needless to say it was too quick to be frightened – but it’s the closest to bungee jumping I’ll ever do, and I loved it. It was such a thrill that I immediately climbed back up and did some freefall cliff jumping. Wow.

From there, they took us to a peak, which we climbed for a breathtaking 360-degree view of the park. It reminded me a lot of Yosemite in California. From there we drove to an area of caves, where we were told that we could go snorkeling into the cave with flashlights!! The water had 60 meters of visibility. This had to be experienced, so I madly signed up. The experience turned out to be one of the coolest of my life – I can’t really explain it with words – it was like being in the movie The Abyss, swimming in pitch black darkness, with the roof of this enormous cave just inches above your head, shining flashlights into the crystal clear water to see it teeming with fish despite the dark. Inside the cave, we all switched off our lights to feel what real pitch black is like. It was surreal.

After this, I didn’t feel like I could handle any more excitement, but more was in store. They took us to the largest caverns in Brazil – we hiked down into a canyon for about an hour and then entered this cave, which was over a mile long. It took us about 45 minutes to walk through it. The ground was the finest sand I’d ever felt and some of the stalagmites and stalactites were over a 100 ft long. It was truly spectacular, and once again, we experienced pitch black when our guide extinguished his lanterns. By the end of the day I was a shadow of my former self, covered in red dust, dirt, rain, and sunburn. We fell into a restaurant and ate the best meal ever. From there – I collapsed into my hotel room bed.

Our last day in Lencois we went horseback riding. I have a little experience riding horses, and I’ve always enjoyed it. However, if any of you have tried it in the US – you will know that it tends to be a mild affair – the horse is plodding along while you enjoy the scenery? You know, liability issues. Well, NOT in Brazil These horses were feisty, fast and furious. When mine first broke into a canter, I though I was going to be thrown and killed. Eventually I got the hang of it – I just had to relax and “go” with the horse. Wow, it was exhilarating. We rode out to river where we swam and then hiked to another series of waterfalls. On the way back, these horses seemed to know that they were going home, and OH MY GOD! – they were galloping and racing each other. I jolted every bone in my body to kingdom come, - and paid for it for about a week. I discovered muscles in my inner thighs which I didn’t know I had, and I felt that a cervical vertebrae had for sure switched itself with my tail bone during the violence. It was really exhilarating.

We took the night bus home that evening – and I slept like any bruised and battered person would, out like a light. I was so tired that I crawled into my cabin and slept right through my alarm for a tour the next day to Capoiera.

The last day in Brazil, I really needed to take it easy – so I spent the day shopping. (for presents for all you lot, Ok?) I was very sad to leave – I loved it here, and as usual, I didn’t get to do some of the things I’d planned – like going to see Candomble (the Brazilian African religion) and personally witnessing a trans-possession ceremony, or getting my cowry shells read, or trekking in the Amazon, or partying in Rio. But as is usual in every port, one only has time for so much, and I had a wonderful time. There will be a next time, I for sure want to come back.

Well, I hope I haven’t bored you all to tears. I have missed you all and am eager to see you and hear all your news. I hope that you’ve enjoyed my chronicles. Perhaps I’ll have time to send one more from Cuba…… Until then, much love and wishes.

Semester at Sea Part X: South Africa

From somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean (well, actually 24`58.0` S Latitude and 015`44.8 W Longitude)

It has been too long since my last update, and it is time to fill you in on the happenings of my five days in South Africa. I have very mixed feelings about this port; on the one hand, it filled me with wonder and excitement, and on the other, with horror and dismay. Whilst I have witnessed much poverty and destitution on this voyage so far, never have I observed it to such an extent, isolated and contained only a few minutes’ drive from skyscrapers, polished ‘downtown’ shopping malls and western white affluence in your face. Never have I been forced to acknowledge the complexities and social ramifications of the society that I live in, the commercial and capitalist center of the world. South Africa was definitely a place for somber reflection on my personal blessings….

Anyway, before I get too serious, let me tell you about what I got up to. We steamed into Cape Town after 8 long long days at sea. Traveling around the southerly tip of Africa, we experienced possibly the worst weather to date, with sea reaching 12-19 meters! We were banned from being out on deck, but I still sneaked out to grab some pics. It was necessary to hold on for dear life, the wind was cracking down and the salt was blasting into my eyes making it difficult to see. But what a sight. I’ll never forget it.

Thankfully, the morning we arrived – the sea was calm. I awoke at 4.30am to witness the truly spectacular sight of seeing the sunrise up over Table Mountain. Unfortunately, the mountain had its customary tablecloth of cloud enveloping its peak, but it was a spectacle nonetheless. It was a blessed relief to find the weather somewhat cool – not another intense summer going on. We actually could wear sweaters and long sleeves in the evening. On arrival, I immediately left for a two-day trip to a nature reserve in the Cedarburg Mountains called Kagga Kamma. The drive was over five hours, and the scenery we passed through was breathtaking. Initially, many of the towns that we passed through reminded me somewhat of England, winding streets, green hills, and the signature gray skies. But as we headed into the interior the landscape unfolded into a breathtaking sandstone desert of red mountains, and scrub land, with vast expanses of wilderness as far as the eye could see. Reminding me of North West Colorado, I immediately felt at home! The lodge we stayed at was privately owned, and represented civilization for at least a 200-mile radius. Which translates to middle-of-nowhere essentially. The lodge was surrounded by incredible rock formations of a rainbow of reds, yellows and golds. They are hard to describe, but any of you who have traveled through Western Colorado or Utah will have an idea what it looked like. Our rooms were either little thatched cottages, or actually caves built into the rock itself. It was very unique. What completed the experience for me were the sounds of the place. Nothing. Sheer and blissful silence. I immediately got on my hiking boots and went exploring over the rocks and caves. I saw some beetles the size of mice, and giant crickets of black and orange that could leap about 30 feet. I felt as if I were on another planet. That evening, they served a barbecue dinner in the outdoor restaurant, complete with campfires and music. The ambiance was terrific. We all bundled up with blankets and hot chocolate and sat around the fire for hours, eating and talking and singing a song or two ( well, I was there you know?) Later that night, we had a lecture on the astronomy of the southern skies, and got a chance to view Saturn’s rings from a telescope. At around midnight we left on a 4x4 game drive. Holding a spotlight out over the scrub land, (and freezing to death, wearing every stitch of clothing I had brought with me) we saw some eland antelope, zebra, ostriches and a gerbil! It was fun, but I felt like we were terrorizing the poor creatures that were confused by the shining lights.

The following morning we went on a 4-mile hike up to some ancient cliff dwellings where the San people used to live, and observed some San paintings. I was extremely reluctant to leave on the five-hour journey back to Cape Town, but the stop at the winery made the trip. I think I ‘tasted’ over eight glasses and was well and truly sloshed getting back on the bus, so needless to say, I entertained the rest of the less intoxicated all the way back. They must have been ready to shoot me (as most of you know, I’m readily shootable at the best of times, let alone when I’m inebriated.)

Back at the ship, I had the advantage of hearing all of the stories from other students who had already been exploring the past two days. Some of them had gone cage diving to get close to some Great White Sharks! One of them told me they’d even been lucky enough to view a right whale swim right under their boat and then breach the water, not 10 feet away. I wish I could have seen that. Unfortunately, there is only ever so much time in each of these ports, and each begs a return visit to sample the deeper experience. The following day, I booked a tour of the Cape of Good Hope, and Cape Point – which is popularly held to be the best place to view the crashing waves of the meeting Indian and Atlantic oceans. The drive was surreal, past these fields upon fields of blooming purple and yellow flowers, fishing villages, with sweeping bays and tiny inlets of crystal blue water. Cape Point itself was really a mountain with an enormous drop to the sea below. Before Cape Agulhas was discovered to be further south, this was the tip of Africa. I hiked up to the top and barely escaped with my life, for I felt sure I would launch off the cliffs in the hurricane force winds. Later we drove to Boulders Beach, home to a colony of penguins. I tell you, I could have spent a whole day with those funny funny birds, in fact, I think it should be widely published and taught that penguin therapy be the new wonder cure for depression. You can’t help but giggle till it hurts watching these creatures waddle around, squawk literally like donkeys, and play with each other.

That night I went to the Theatre to see a play written and performed by Greg Coetzee about the South African male psyche. It was titled Breasts. I really didn’t go in with any expectations, but I laughed so long and so loud, that I think I developed three new sets of eye wrinkles. One of my favorite lines was during a monologue where the character is talking to his dead mothers’ grave, about a hippie girl who had just left him, ‘Save the whales, shoot a hippie!’ – I know, you really had to be there to get a little context. Anyway, the performance was so compelling that I returned the following evening.

The following day I took it upon myself to climb the treacherous Table Mountain. At about 4000 ft, it was quite a climb. I went along with the assistant academic dean, so at least I can tell you that the conversation was never dull….! We started along the Skeleton Gorge trail, which began in the Kirstenbosch botanical gardens. We were quite happy at first, as the gradient was only moderate, until we turned a corner, to face a series of near-vertical ladders that we had to overcome. That was different, and somewhat scary, but we made it. Or at least we thought. When we reached the ‘top’, with glorious views over the coastline, we were told by several burly officers of the South African army, who laughed when we asked if we were on the summit. ‘Oh, no, mate – that’s about another five kilometers – just keep going, you should make it by 3pm…” Anyway, on we trudged, and whilst it really was beautiful up there, we really were not prepared with provisions for such a long hike. By the time we were about an hour from the cable car we were driving each other crazy talking about sipping a tall glass of coke with ice in it, and chewing on a juicy steak sandwich. When we arrived at the cable car station, we were ravenous and treated ourselves to a sumptuous meal. We took the cable car down as we were barely able to stand up. It was a great day, which was improved in greatness ten-fold when I discovered that they served trifle at the theatre that night before the play. I was a very happy bunny.

My last day in South Africa was much more serious. I took a tour, which went out to visit three black and colored townships on the outskirts of the city. The whole notion of going to visit where people are living in squalor, as a tourist, was very uncomfortable to begin with. I started asking myself what I was doing there, and what would I speak about with these people? My apprehension was not appeased when we stepped off of the coach to the sight of a lady seated at a table covered with blood, calmly chopping the last few shreds of wool off of decapitated sheep’s heads. We were taken to view a housing community where families of six shared a single twin bed, and each room had five beds. The stench was strong, and there were many young children running around without clothes or shoes. Many students were taking photos, but I couldn’t justify it, except when some of the kids indicated they really wanted me to take their picture. Many many women there were pregnant – it was the first time that fact had caught my attention to such an extent. South Africa in general has a 24% incidence of HIV, but we were told it could reach as high as 50% in these black living communities. We were then taken to a community college, which impressed me with the level of hope displayed by the students. Most of them were learning trade skills such as weaving, pottery or bricklaying. And they all sang while they worked. The music and quality of their voices were very moving, and I quickly purchased some items for sale, as I thought the project was extremely worthy in its ability to provide an economy for the community. I spoke with one of the lecturers, who immediately asked if he could come and visit me in the States. I was taken aback, but offered him my email address should he wish to correspond.

The last township, Crossroads, was more like a shantytown. Homes were built from bits of cardboard or corrugated tin and iron. I spoke with several people who mostly expressed an increased sense of satisfaction with their circumstances, (as compared to the residents of the 1^st community) mostly derived from the fact that their homes were their own (they purchased them), and that ownership at least afforded them some privacy. Most of them were fully aware of the cycle of poverty they were living in, one woman I spoke with in her mid-sixties, was the sole income-earner for her family of 11, including children, their partners and their children. She explained how, someone has to earn enough money in order for them to be able to send their children to school (to pay for transport was the main issue – education is free to minimum level), in order that they possibly might learn English, or some other skill, which might increase their chances of finding employment some day. Even so, among the skilled, unemployment was roughly 80%. And despite the official end to Apartheid, the whites still control the labor market, and the opportunities for blacks are simply not there – with work consisting of minimum wage manual labor of some form.

I am still processing my feelings from that day. I do know, however, that if I were living in South Africa, I would struggle with my feelings surrounding my life of comfort, just a few miles from people who were experiencing a struggle every day for survival. I think it will also make me stop and think more about the problems of poverty in the US. I think I’ve been very blind to it. Many people spoke about the possibility of enormous outbreaks of violence, if Nelson Mandela should die. I could certainly believe this to be possible, if more measures are not taken immediately to move towards a more balanced social structure.

So I should end this letter soon. I apologize again for its length, but I hope you found it interesting. We shall be arriving in Salvador, Brazil in a few days. I can’t believe there are only 24 days left of this voyage, the time has flown past. I am excited about coming home, but also feel extreme trepidation as I know the country I left, will not be the same country I return to.

Yesterday we held the Semester at Sea Olympic Games. They were a lot of fun, and you could really feel a great community spirit on board. I had the honor of singing the Olympic anthem before the awards ceremony in front of the whole ship. I sang a song called “World in Union” based on a classical piece of music by Holst and adapted for song by the South African group “Ladysmith Black Mambazo.” I highly recommend their music.

So long for now. I will write again from Brazil.

Semester at Sea Part IX: The Seychelles & Neptune Day

Anyway, I thought that it was time for an update after my very brief email from the Seychelles. Needless to say my time there was incredible. The first day was a nightmare both for us and for the islanders who suddenly had to deal with what was essentially 10% of their population descending on their homeland all at the same time. To make matters worse we were a) – American (only 1000 North Americans visit the Seychelles per year!), b) – college students (I don’t think the Seychelles is your typical Spring Break, Let’s go party and be wild destination)and finally c) – half of these college students being bald. (Neptune day shenanigans – will explain more later….) Anyway, there were semester at sea students EVERYWHERE and it was complete madness. I got off the ship with a friend of mine and headed for a ferry terminal to go to another island, only to be told that all the ferries were full. So we decided to head to the coast and go snorkeling. What we found on the north coast of Mahe was a re-enactment of Spring Break, with students frolicking, loving the whole topless beach scene, and generally making a lot of commotion.

At this point, I was just thinking to myself – "get me out of here" – The Seychelles is supposed to conjure up images of secluded beaches with white sand, nothing to hear but the sound of the surf, right? I therefore proceeded to spend the next two hours on the phone with travel agents, airlines and hotels before I finally found a room on Le Cerf Island for 3 people, and was guaranteed that the island was very secluded and unpopulated. I signed up and promptly dragged a couple of as yet homeless students off of the beach and headed for the marina. By the way, I have to mention that the Seychelles is not the kind of place where things get done “in a hurry”; these people are on island time, baby. I had issues with the telephone, then issues with getting a cab – I was told that you can’t hail cabs, you can’t call cabs, you just have to wander, and then maybe you’ll be lucky enough to have one pull over for you. OK. We did eventually find a cab and made it just in time for the boat to Le Cerf.

It was everything I had imagined, a beautiful little white cottage with gardens, a pool overlooking the cove and sandy beach. Le cerf was also located in one of the marine national parks and so it was supposed to have great snorkeling opportunities. I spent the next two days relaxing, (I even sunbathed naked at one point on a deserted beach – I swear there was no-one there!!) and went out on a few scuba trips. Our guide was French and very sexy. He took us out to numerous coral reefs and I saw a variety of amazing tropical fish, stingrays, eels, sea horses, turtles and coral. The water really is as clear as they show on documentaries – I could see for at least 100 ft down. We even ventured out to some deeper areas of water and that’s where I observed some reef sharks ominously circling below me. That was an incredible experience that I’ll never forget. We also saw an entire school of eagle rays, each one measuring about 3 feet in diameter – they were magnificent.

So, that was my time in the Seychelles. I was still sad we didn’t go to Kenya, but I was comforted by the fact that I was one of the lucky few that had already been.

I don’t want this email to be too long so I’ll just cover a few more articles of news. Yes, I did shave my head on the 24^th of October. It was the day we crossed the equator, and about 150 of the students did it. Apparently it is British Naval tradition to shave one’s head the first time one crosses the equator on a boat. I had been toying with the idea ever since our itinerary change, and I have to say that it was extremely nerve racking. However, this voyage has taught me to see past social and cultural boundaries, and I could think of no better physical expression of that, and the personal journey I have undertaken, than parting with my precious curls. It was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done, and I just had to keep reassuring myself – it will grow back, it will grow back. Why is hair so important to me anyway – I kept asking? Why does it represent so much of who I am? (I know, I may be getting a little philosophical here) That day was really hard to understand, it was complete madness on the ship. We started the day with being “anointed” for the head-shaving ritual by being doused in fish guts before diving into the pool and getting fire-hosed down. It was the most grotesque smell- I can’t describe how vile it was. A friend of mine shaved my head, and I had decided to shave it to a ¼ inch, but she forgot to put the guard on the clipper and so took an entire chunk off of the back of my head. Its funny now, but I can tell you it wasn’t then. It looked so bad; I just decided to shave the whole thing to the scalp. Anyway, I’ve gotten a lot of compliments on my new look, so I hope you’ll all be understanding when I get back….

So, that’s it. We should be arriving in Cape Town, South Africa early tomorrow morning, and believe me, many of us are more than ready to get off of this boat!! We’ve been sailing for 8 days, and other than crazy Halloween celebrations (I dressed as an African Witchdoctor) I’ve been studying and taking exams most of the week. It is easy to fill one’s day on the ship, but sometimes you are just seized with longing for a change of scene other than seven decks. I can’t complain though – I am being seized with pangs of distress at the thought that this voyage is nearly over! I can’t believe it – Japan feels like years ago!! Anyway, I hope you enjoy the photos, and this letter – apologies for the length.

I’ll write again probably from Cape Town.

PS – For those of you who don’t know, I have been accepted into the BFA Theatre Performance degree program at CU for the Spring!

Semester at Sea Part VIII: India

This is my last day in India. I'm in Madras (or Chennai depending on your perspective) after having
just spent the last four days in Delhi, Jaipur, and Agra.

India is.......holy shit.....can't find the words to describe it, but that actually sums it up pretty well.

Christina, If you're reading this, I have much admiration of your spirit for having lived here. Now I understand why it changed you the way it did.

Well, here goes. The flight to Delhi was smooth, despite the fact that many students were nervous as hell getting on the plane. The fact was, the security at the airport was tighter than I've ever experienced before. We were x-rayed, frisked, searched, battery removed, frisked a couple more times, then x-rayed again for a good measure. Wow!

On arrival in Delhi we transferred to the hotel. My experience thus far had been from the windows of a bus, first on my way to the airport in Chennai. It was hot. Unlike any heat before, this heat was body permeating, it invaded your soul like a hot hot treacle, except that you've gotta add flies, mosquitoes and a lot of dirt into the mix. Then you've got to add air pollution because I don't think I inhaled a single atom of oxygen on the way to the airport - my body has miraculously adapted to respiring on pure car/motorized rickshaw/bus/more buses/cow and camel gas/elephant dung/sewage methane gases to survive. Then there is the visual experience. People, people everywhere - sleeping on the streets, peeing in the streets, kids naked in the streets, living on the streets, in the road, on bikes, everywhere. And then there's the cows. Traffic drives around the cows, as they are sacred. They seem to be free roaming intermixed with city life - a sight so common I'm just used to it. There is trash everywhere, and buildings in mass disrepair. And then the smells. I've never known a country to have a more distinct odor. It varies between shit smell to sewage smell, to body odor smell, to exhaust fume smell, and sometimes, if you're very lucky - you get a combination of the above simultaneously. Noise? Very loud in the city - mostly traffic. In the rural areas (we drove for over eight long long hours to Jaipur from Delhi) it can be pretty peaceful, just the mooing of cows and the snorting of camels to be heard.

So, I hope this gives you an idea of the ambiance of India. Madras was slightly more intense than Delhi - but it gives you the gist of things. To contrast this experience, we were greeted at our Delhi hotel with wreaths of carnations and a welcome cocktail. The hotel lobby was made entirely of marble with fountains and plush furniture. Kinda weird to step into another world that you can buy with money, if you have it....

We had a 4 am wake up call to catch our train to Agra. The station was unreal - rats everywhere, an entire settlement of homeless people living in the station. At the same time, the train was extremely decent, although slow, and I fell asleep almost instantly. We drove to the famed Taj Mahal upon arrival. Nothing prepared me for this incredible sight. We approached the white building from a red sandstone archway, and it reminded me of the feeling I had when I viewed the Grand Canyon for the first time. It literally took my breath away. The entire structure is immense in proportion and has a 100% symmetrical architectural
design. Inside lay the tombs of the last Mughal Emperor and his wife, for whom he built the Taj as a symbol of his eternal love...

Agra is predominantly a Muslim population, so there were not many women on the street, and if there were, they were accompanied by men. As such, I gained almost superstar status - every guy that saw me wanted a photo of him with me. So I kindly obliged the first 10 requests until it was just getting ridiculous. I got a glimpse of what fame is like, and it wasn't very pleasant, despite the flattery.

Next we drove to Fakih Sirrar - the ancient capital of India - where, incidentally, they filmed the movie Octopussy - you know, James Bond. It is now an abandoned set of ruins, but very beautiful and interesting at the same time. Seven long, hot and sticky hours later we arrived in Jaipur and collapsed in a heap at the hotel before dinner and a dance performance with fire-breathing acts. The drive was a great insight into rural India - I saw many villages and farms with women carrying water on their heads, kids running alongside the road waving at the bus and crying out for food, and of course, more cows and camels. The countryside is beautiful and very green.

Jaipur was magical. The following day we rose at dawn to ride an elephant to the top of Amber Fort, in the middle of the beautiful Rajikstan desert hills. The experience was unforgettable - I even got my photo taken on top of an elephants' head!! The view of the "pink city" (so called because the majority of buildings are pink in color, and because the land is pinkish) was spectacular. We also visited a carpet making factory and a Jewellery factory. Yes, I gave in and bought a few precious stones - but they were ridiculously good value. I got very upset at this one historic sight, where I found 4 puppies trapped in this 2 by 2 corridor of a fort surrounded by barbed wire. They were starving and so weak from dehydration they couldn't move their heads and just lay there whimpering waiting to die..... it was horrible. Of course, seeing the hungry children everywhere we went was highly disturbing, and constantly in my mind is the question of whether to give or not? Does it simply reinforce the begging, or does it really help?

I ended up giving away all of my food.

My other highlight was taking the sleeper train back to Delhi. It was an experience to sleep as you watched the Indian Countryside flash by your window.... Also, of interest - Colin Powell was in Delhi at the same time as us, and we called the US embassy to ask if we could meet with him. We were informed that he had been "evacuated" from the city. WTF??

We also visited the Gandhi museum and walked around the garden where he was assassinated in 1949. I bought his biography at the airport - its fascinating.

Ok - I better go - I'm sorry this letter was SO long, hopefully you enjoyed reading it. I'm about to go shopping for a while, and then maybe head to the beach for a horse back ride. Back on the ship at 9pm and we're sailing for Kenya tomorrow....

Please please stay in touch and let me know how you are all doing!

Semester at Sea Part VII: Singapore & The Indian Ocean

Well, we’re on our way to Madras in India after four great days in Singapore, marred only by the disturbing news of the US attack on Afghanistan. Once again, I am feeling the frustration of being so far removed from “reality”, unable to stay informed or updated on the latest developments. Any emails that briefly cover major events would be greatly appreciated from you guys. I am trying hard to reach a balance in terms of my feelings, because if I dwell too much on these disturbing events, I can’t cope with my pending exams, or even enjoy my time spent in port. My thoughts are as ever with you all during this time.

I wanted to give you guys an update now, because it is unlikely that I’ll get to an Internet cafe whilst in India. I will be flying to Delhi and then visiting Jaipur – the "pink city", followed by the Taj Mahal, Amber, Agra and New Delhi itself. The US State department issued a worldwide caution for all US citizens traveling in India, and as such, Semester at Sea gave students the opportunity of canceling their trips to North India for a full refund to stay in Chennai. Over half of the students have cancelled their plans, but I didn’t give going a second thought. I am actually pretty sick of listening to students whining about risks to their personal safety. I understand their concern, but at the same time, I believe that we need to embrace this opportunity to visit a country where we may potentially come into contact with people who are having strong negative feelings about the US, and perhaps through our example and our humanity we can leave a positive impression. Last night, the ship had a community meeting to discuss the war in Afghanistan, and I was so tired of the selfish attitudes in the room, that I was moved to go up to the microphone and express my feelings about the conflict. I got extremely emotional, encouraging the students not to be scared, but to open our hearts and minds to learning, listening and experiencing India and the people that live there, even if we encounter hostility. I feel so grateful for such an opportunity.

At this point, you may know about our altered itinerary. From India, we will be sailing to Mombassa in Kenya, Cape Town, South Africa, Salvador in Brazil, Havana in Cuba and then back to Miami. I look forward to giving you updates from all future ports of call.

My last two days in Vietnam were incredible. I took a two hour cyclo (bicycle cart) tour in Hanoi which took us to a residential area of Hanoi that was away from the maddening noise of the city. We watched children play in the street and people preparing meals outside their homes. My last day in Saigon, I traveled to the Mekong Delta, where we visited a village and interacted with the local people. They fed us wonderfully exotic fruits and let us play with the children. We took a canoe ride through the jungle and drank from coconuts. It was hard to believe that this area was where a great deal of fighting was taking place in South Vietnam during the war. That evening, I visited the War Memorial Museum in Saigon and saw some horrifying exhibits of the Vietnam Conflict, as told from the Vietnamese perspective. I saw photos of American soldiers holding up shredded bodies of civilians as if they were trophies, and photos of massacres of women and children. There was a display dedicated to the chemical agent “orange” which the US Army used to wipe out vast areas of vegetation to clear the way for fighting. This chemical agent produced severe birth defects in future generations, there were even aborted Siamese twins and deformed babies on display in glass jars. It was a gut wrenching sight. I bought several books about the Vietnam conflict, and have been reading them voraciously. There is so much information that I have been ignorant about all these years, and in some way, it makes our current situation feel so much more real and frightening.

Singapore was vastly different to prior ports. I felt almost like I was back in the US – except that it was much warmer and only 1 degree north of the equator. For an island the size of Chicago, its hard to believe that Singapore is a country in its own right, but you can tell they are proud of being “different” to the rest of south east Asia. Much of the island has been very disneyfied – almost to try and convince the citizens of Singapore that they’ve found Utopia. On my first day, I visited Changi Prison, which was a prisoner of war camp during the Japanese Occupation of Singapore during the second world war. The Japanese invaded Singapore only a day after Pearl Harbor. Seeing the prison was a good contrast for me, especially after visiting Hiroshima. It made me remember how viciously cruel both fighting sides were to the “enemy” they were fighting. I don’t want to make this email entirely gruesome, so I’ll leave out the description. I took a Night Safari at the Singapore Zoo, which was again, very Disney – but well worth the visit. The highlight was the Bat enclosure, where I had flying Fox Bats soaring over my head with a 4-6 foot wingspan. Amazing.

The highlight of my time in Singapore would have to be the day I spent on a small island north of Singapore called Pulau Ubin. It’s a fishing/farming island with only a several hundred inhabitants, and it is covered with lush green rain forest and beautiful beaches. I went with a group of friends, including faculty, by boat to the Island and we rented bicycles for the day. We cycled around the entire island, stopping for the local dish of Pepper Crab which was spicy and delicious. The weather was Hot, Hot, Hot – a pattern I believe will predominate for the remainder of the voyage – and then I'll come home to snowy Colorado!! My last day was spent on Sentosa Island – which is like a recreational retreat for Singaporeans, - it has the southernmost tip in Asia, an aquarium, observation tower and various other themed attractions. My favorite were the musical water fountain shows at night, together with classical music. I also did a little shopping, although Singapore is very expensive, I went to Little India (just in case they cancelled our port there altogether) and Arab street. Oh! I almost forgot – I went for “High Tea” at the famous British Colonial Raffles Hotel. It was completely decadent – I ate Cream scones with strawberrys, rare fruits, cakes, sandwiches, salmon and lots of English tea. It was a real treat, and the hotel itself was beautiful. Many movies have been filmed here.

Back on the boat – I’ve really hit crunch time academically. I am in the middle of taking mid terms for three of my classes, in fact, I’m struggling to stay awake right now, because I pulled an all-nighter yesterday studying for my Geology Class. Whoever said classes on Semester at Sea were easy were kidding. I have one more exam in the morning, which I should be studying for now, but I really wanted to write this letter first, so oh, well! Life on the ship has gotten a lot more natural. Tuesday was hell because we were given a field trip list for the remainder of our voyage, and then told we had to make decisions by 6pm! I decided to take a safari of Tsavo and Amboselli in Kenya, a day visiting Townships in Cape Town, with a 2 day venture into the mountains, and I left Brazil and Cuba open for independent travel. Many signed up to go to the Amazon – but it was over a 7 hour flight just to get there – and it was over a $1000! Besides, if I ever go, I would rather not do it with a huge group of loud students. I have been making some good friends finally on the boat. One of them happens to be the Philosophy professor – an Orthodox Jew from New York, who is absolutely hilarious to be around. Also a Resident Director, Alison. She is extremely cool, studying for her PhD in Cultural Studies at UNC, Chapel Hill, and a political activist for Amnesty International. She has incredible insights into this world, and I’m thoroughly enjoying getting to know her. We’ve agreed to travel together when we get to Brazil.

Other than study, I’ve been trying to get back into shape after having truly pigged out for over a month on the amazing food on the ship. I’ve been taking conditioning and kickboxing classes on the ship – and trying to swim in the pool. We’ve also had some great social events, including a Las Vegas Evening, where I got to perform a song. It was really fun.

Anyway, I really better go study. I’m sorry this letter was so long – I hope I haven’t bored you to death.

Will write again after India. I should have some photos posted online soon – so keep watch! Love you all.

Anita

Somewhere in the Indian Ocean, SS Universe Explore.

Semester at Sea Part VI: Vietnam

Greetings from Hanoi, in North Vietnam!!

So, We arrived in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh city) 3 days ago and then I flew to Hanoi the next day. This country is beyond words.

The end of my stay in Beijing was very memorable. We visited the Forbidden City on the last day, which was incredible. In the evening I saw an acrobatic show in a large theatre, and quite honestly, it was the most entertained I have been in my life. It was so good it brought tears to my eyes, and I was constantly cheering and ovating. The performance was just like a Cirque du Soleil - only better - and they even had little kids like 7 or 8 years old, doing contortions, and tumbling, plate spinning and balance acts. It was amazing, I almost felt like I was ready to go home, because nothing could possible beat that experience...

Except Vietnam did. I got up at dawn again to watch us enter Ho Chi Minh via the Saigon River. The river banks were scattered with stilt homes and rice paddies in the background as far as the eye could see. It was thundering pretty bad too, which added to the whole atmosphere. Arriving in Saigon - we visited the Reunification Palace, which is the state building that North Vietnamese tanks crashed through its gates on 30 April 1975, essentially ending the war and re-establishing a communist state. The two tanks there were on display. Saigon itself was completely insane - There are motorcycles EVERYWHERE!!!! - and no-one wears helmets, so there are about 30 fatalities a day. Its hard to watch, especially entire families with two babies all clutching on for dear life on a single bike. Obviously, crossing the street was quite an adventure in itself, Apparently, you just have to walk, and trust that the traffic will go around you!

You get the hang of it after a while....

The city was filthy and just as densely populated as I've ever seen. I was pretty sick, just getting over a head cold, so I didn't stay out late. We paid about $3 for dinner, inc beer and then I headed back.

The following day we flew to Hanoi and then drove for 4 hours to the coastal region of Halong Bay. It was a quiet little tourist trap- where the female masseuses give oral sex and even offered it to me and a couple of my female friends - EWW?? We spent the evening drinking milk from Coconuts on the beach.

The following day we took a boat ride out in the bay. The scenery was incredible, If anyone has seen the movie Indochine - it was set here and I highly recommend seeing it. The islands are huge limestone cliffs jutting out of the sea which is emerald green. We visited the largest cave I've ever seen - and then had some time for swimming. We all dived from the second deck of the boat - it was crazy. We even swam like a 20 minute swim to a nearby island!! We then dined like kings on whole king crabs and shrimp. Definitely the highlight of my trip so far...

We are now back in Hanoi, which is slightly less hectic than Saigon, and very very French. There is beautiful french architecture and signs are in French also. I'm shopping right now, and then we have to travel back to the airport.

Semester at Sea Part V: Beijing, China

Greetings!

Well, I'm writing this to you all from Tianneman Square in Beijing - I can't believe I am here. The
square is the largest city square in the world - it took us over an hour to walk across it! They have lit
it all up at night, and people are flying kites, speed skating, drinking coffee and admiring the various
pavilions they have set up celebrating Beijing's nomination for the 2008 Olympics. There are fountains,
lasers and ornate gardens. Quite magnificent.

Flew into Beijing from Hong Kong yesterday and visited the summer palace. I was pretty oblivious from
exhaustion at the end of the day, and collapsed in my room after having a 24 course Peking duck banquet
thrown in Semester at Sea's honor at this palatial restaurant/thingy....Can't describe it - I was a
little inebriated on the wine and beer. The food was spectacular.

Today was also exhausting - we visited the Great Wall of China. It was a good hour's hike to the wall,
battling non-stop peddlers trying to sell "I climbed the wall" t-shirts. The weather was wonderful - not
too hot in the mid 60's, but the mountains spread out for miles and were enveloped in a sea of mist. We
climbed on the wall itself for another mile or so and then came down on, wait for it, a toboggan!! yes, can
you believe it? They have a theme park ride at the great wall that you can descend for about $5!!

Spent the evening shopping - got a red silk dress that I've always wanted, ate dinner, took several
frightening trips in cabs where I feared for my life, and then came to Tiannamen square with Andy, the philosophy professor!

Will write more soon

Semester at Sea Part IV: Hong Kong

I hope this email finds you all safe and well. I'm in Hong Kong, in the strangest Internet cafe I think I'll
ever experience!! For some reason, people come in here to play interactive video games, most of which
are dealing with warfare - so I'm sitting here writing to you all while I listen to what sounds like a war
zone all around me....Guns, tanks, missiles, screaming - It is most bizarre and hard to concentrate.

Well, we made it hear with quite an adventure - and yet ANOTHER typhoon!! - this one complete with
thunder, lightning, howling wind, crashing waves, and torrential rain. I was out on deck this morning at
5.30am watching us trying to battle our way into Hong Kong Harbor, fighting to stand upright, and watching the ocean light up every few seconds in a burst of lightning. It was an incredible sight - I can tell you. At this point, I'm so used to the movement of the boat, it feels weird to stand on land!

Luckily the weather cleared a little before our arrival - enough for me to take in the unbelievably
awesome skyline of Hong Kong. I've never seen anything like it in my life - Skyscrapers looking like
they've been built on top of other skyscrapers, buildings as far as the eye can see, all amassed and
compacted together in front of green peaks shrouded in mist and cloud.. Amazing. The weather is so humid it is like walking through a permanent shower - your clothes are always wet....

I've just returned from my city orientation which covered the historic and modern sections of the city.
I met a lot of English businessmen, whom I tried to stop and chat to - Most excused themselves as "too
busy" to talk to me, others looking at me like "you are a stranger, so why are you talking to me?" I'm
sorry to all of you who are still in the UK, but it gave me a bad feeling about people 'back home'.
I was told that there are over 200 000 brits still working in Hong Kong, but that a vast majority left
and went back to the UK after the handover to China in 1997. Still, most people speak English here.

Walking around Hong Kong - I think I just gazed upward with an open jaw for most of the trip - the enormity of the structures are just boggling. The highlights for me were the colonial tea drinking museum, the St. Johns cathedral which the Japanese occupied in the 1930's and transformed into a dance hall, and the antique markets where you could still buy opium snuff boxes and miniature portraits of the late General Mao.

We also took a Sampan ride through the harbor and got to see some of the Hong Kong 'boat people" who live their entire lives on the water. That was almost in poor taste - I felt like some American who had come to gawk at the less fortunate... I didn't take pictures of that.

Tonight, I intend to take a cable car up to Victoria Island for dinner, and take in the electric
views of Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. I'm leaving at 6.30am tomorrow for Beijing for 3 nights. I can't
wait to visit the Great wall and the forbidden city... I will write again at the end of that trip..

By the way, there has been a change to our itinerary, but for security reasons, we are not 'supposed' to
tell our friends and family yet. Suffice to say that we are not going through the Suez canal, but will be
taking a southerly route around Africa. I'll let you know the exact details when I get word..

Please let me know how you are all doing - I will do my best to reply to you on an individual basis as time
permits...

Love to you all.

Semester at Sea Part III: Japan

This is my last day in Japan. We leave at 4. Its been an strange experience - mixed joy with
uncertainty over this world's future, and the future of the US. I read the paper each day but still have been
unable to watch any news coverage. Please, if any of you have cable and a VCR - could you tape some
coverage for me so I can at lease have a record of what happened when I get back?

Things on the ship are quite sketchy right now. Some students seem unaffected, others are distraught -
especially those whose parents are in the military. We are going to be re-routed just no one knows where or when yet. I don't think we'll be travelling to Malaysia or India at this point, we'll probaby head to
Africa or Australia. We are waiting to hear.

Other than that, Japan has been very memorable. The people here are warm and welcoming. Every Japanese person I've met, upon learning we're from the US, has bowed and offered his or her consolation for what has happened. Despite the enormous language barrier - I have been touched by their grace and serenity. I have seen more temples and shrines than I can count - the most memorable of those in Kyoto, the ancient capital.
It was set in a hillside, with dense rainforest rising above it into mist and clouds, with the city in the
background and ornate 10^th century buildings, whose size and magnitude took my breath away.

Other memories :getting caught in a downpour and drenched to the skin, gathering with Japanese and
other students under a bamboo roof, being served some hot sake with rice in a bowl, enjoying the view and distinct smells which made me so heightened and aware of being in a distant and unfamiliar place.

Yesterday was sobering. We visited the peace memorial museum in Hiroshima. I saw images which will stay in my mind's eye forever. Last night was full of dreams. It was ever more poignant when I thought about how we might all be on the brink of war which will result in more death and suffering....

Anyway, I better go...I love you all and will write to you next from China.....

Semester at Sea Part II: September 11, 2001

I wanted to send out my best wishes and thoughts to all of you in the US. We found out about the tragedy
early yesterday morning, and I spent most of the day crying and in shock. I can't believe this has
happened.

I trust and hope that your friends and family are safe.

I am OK. We are in Kobe, Japan, right now. For now, they intend to continue the itinerary, but I think
travelling through the Middle East is doubtful. I will let you know when things become more
certain.

Take care, I love you all.

Semester at Sea Part I: Pacific Crossing

Can you believe it? They've finally installed a satellite link up to enable some students to use email whilst at sea!! However, they charge 50c per minute, so I'll have to keep this message short.

Suffice to say, that after two days of basically wanting to die, (the ship was rocking through 30-40ft waves - it was hell) I'm finally OK. I swear if someone had come into my cabin with a loaded weapon I would have begged them to put me out of my misery. Much happier now, with food in my belly finally, I've turned attention to making friends, partying, and studying (some of the time!). The ship is cool, and so are the people, food, professors etc. The only problem is that there are 2 girls to every guy on the boat. I'm sure I'll manage somehow! I am so excited to get to Japan. Saw schools of dolphins of the port bow this morning!

Love you all!! Please, those of you with CU Theatre, email me who got cast in what???? Love to Mon, Mum and Dad too - I'll call from Kobe.

From another world, far, far, away in the middle of the Pacific ocean.